The History of Fast Fashion

In a world of abundant choice and rapidly increasing convenience, consumers want more for less: less time, less money and less effort. 

This is especially true of the fashion industry; in fact, 2 tonnes of clothing is bought in the UK every minute. 

100 billion new garments of clothing are produced annually across the globe. To put that effort into perspective, a single cotton shirt takes 2,700 litres of water to produce. 

How did we reach such an alarming rate of supply and demand?

To understand, we’re going to explore the concept and history of fast fashion; what is this goliath of an industry, where did it come from, and what kind of impact is it making on our planet?

What is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion is the low-cost, low-quality mass production of clothing. Often mimicking popular styles or designers, fast fashion offers a cheap alternative to expensive brands.  

This style of clothing production is popular for its speed, convenience and sheer volume of choice. Household names such as Primark, Shein and New Look are all considered fast fashion brands. 

Fast fashion encourages consumers to keep up to date with the latest trends and styles, creating the illusion that wearing the same clothes for an extended period of time is undesirable: it’s estimated that people now buy 60% more clothes yet wear them for half as long. 

This relentless consumption of the “next best thing” and desire to save face socially has resulted in striking numbers of clothing waste; the US alone is responsible for 20 million tonnes annually. 

Although it’s a testament to modern technology that consumers can purchase new clothes at the tap of a button, fast fashion, unfortunately, encourages a desire for convenience that takes precedence over sustainability and the longevity of the planet. 

Timeline of Fast Fashion Through the Ages 

So, when did fast fashion start?

It’s hard to imagine that, in an age of fast fashion, our clothing production was once slow. 

Very slow. 

For thousands of years, we made our own clothes; garments were hand-stitched, hand-sewn and people used animal products such as bones and horns as needles. 

1800s

It wasn’t until the 19th century, owing to the dawn of the Industrial Revolution and Barthelemy Thimonnier’s first sewing machine, that clothing was worn as a symbol of style and class rather than out of necessity.

As the speed at which clothes could be made rose, so did the demand, and so the first sweatshops popped up in the 1800s. Conditions for workers within these sweatshops have been poor from the outset, with seamstresses being paid by the piece and frequently working 16-hour days. 

1960s

Fast forward to the mid-20th century, clothing then became more a symbol of self-expression, wealth and status. Shopping for new garments became a hobby and a lifestyle, so the demand for cheap, mass-produced clothing grew. 

The first textile mills began opening up around the developing world, the birth of the sweatshops that we know today. 

1990s

“Fast Fashion” was born. 

Amancio Ortega, founder of Zara, embarked on a mission to move garments from the concept and design stage into stores to be purchased within two weeks. The New York Times covered an article about Ortega’s ideas, coining the term ‘fast fashion' for the first time.

Environmental and Ethical Impacts of Fast Fashion

Environmental

Fast fashion statistics show us that the environmental impacts of the industry are vast and undeniable. It is estimated that the fashion industry is now responsible for 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions.

The use of synthetic fibres in the production process also has severe ramifications on the environment since these materials can take up to 800x as long to decompose than natural fibres such as cotton.  

Of the 100 billion clothing items produced annually, less than 1% of the waste produced is recycled. This waste is mostly dumped into landfills and can take up to 200 years to break down. 

As far as water is concerned, the fashion industry is now responsible for 20% of worldwide industrial wastewater pollution. Even more surprisingly, fast fashion consumes a staggering 93 billion cubic metres annually, or in other words, enough water to feed 5 million people. 

The numbers paint a pretty clear picture: fast fashion is fundamentally unsustainable and downright harmful to the planet. 

Ethical 

Unfortunately, the negative impact doesn’t stop there. Another pressing issue with the fast fashion industry is the exploitation of its workers. 

To maintain a low-cost reputation, fast fashion brands use sweatshop factories from poorer countries (and choose to have “minimal control over each step of the supply chain” to remove legal liability). It is estimated that 97% of fashion garments are made in countries such as Bangladesh, China, India, Thailand, amongst others. Sadly, the legislation of each country often fails to protect their workers. 

Fast fashion employs around 75 million people globally; 80% of workers are women, who frequently face poverty and human rights violations. Shockingly, it’s estimated that only 2% of all garment factory workers make a livable wage. 

Sweatshops are notorious for their appalling working conditions. The European Parliament described conditions in Asian sweatshops as “slave labour”, with numerous workers frequently doing 16-hour days, 7 days a week. 

The use of 8,000 different synthetic chemicals in fast fashion factories is known to cause cancer in workers, amongst other health conditions.

Solutions for Fast Fashion

Since we now understand what fast fashion is, where it came from, and the heartbreaking impact it’s making on the world, it’s time to look forward and create a path for change. 

If you’re interested in eliminating fast fashion from your wardrobe, here are four easy to implement lifestyle changes you could consider:

Upcycle

Upcycling offers a powerful way to minimise waste by transforming discarded clothes and materials into items with renewed purpose and style. This approach not only saves resources but also creates one-of-a-kind pieces that stand out from mass-produced fashion. 

Even better than upcycling yourself? Discover the community of upcycle designers on Alterist. Browse collections that push the boundaries of style and sustainability. From reworked leather to reconstructed knitwear, each piece is crafted by designers who turn discarded materials into something extraordinary.

Buy Second-Hand

Purchasing your clothes from charity shops or second-hand shops, or even swapping clothes with a friend, is a great way to refresh your wardrobe without buying into fast fashion. 

Support Independent Brands

Shop local and support independent brands, like those on Alterist who are championing bespoke, handmade options. Since most fast fashion is produced and shipped overseas, buying locally can cut down your wardrobe’s carbon footprint. 

Look for Sustainable Brands

Do your research and ensure that whichever brand you shop from is environmentally and ethically conscious. 

Final Thoughts about Fast Fashion

Though the history of fast fashion is vast, the industry took the world by storm in the late 20th century and has only grown since. As clothing became a symbol of status, wealth and self-expression, the demand for quick production grew.

Sadly, the fast fashion industry we know today paints a bleak, unsustainable picture for the planet, from devastating ethical violations to concerning environmental impacts. 

Moving forward, there are numerous ways to make more sustainable and ethically conscious decisions when shopping for new clothes, from buying second-hand, sourcing local and independent retailers or breathing life back into old materials through upcycling.